What V Men Want
Published on VMan Print Fall/Winter 2024
Words by Alice Almeida
To paraphrase Charli XX's summertime banger, Gucci's B bag is one with which you can fall in love ancora e ancora.
Suppose you've been looking for a bag that exudes Italian allure while handling your American hustle. Look no further than the Gucci B bag. It is the reincarnation of an archival piece that has been re-envisioned by Gucci's creative director, Sabato De Sarno. It offers the charm of the past updated with the practicality of the present. Initially presented as part of Gucci's Fall Winter 2024 collection, the bag comes in three flavors: Ancora red (an eye-catching, now-signature hue); black leather (a timeless choice); and an Ancora red monogram (a playful touch). The house's latest motif-inspired by one of De Sarno's bordeaux fertility sculptures, important in prehistoric Sardinian culture-has been applied to everything from bags and shoes to skirts and jackets. Its name, Ancora, comes from the Italian word "again", inspired by the feeling of can't get-enough when making out with someone hot. De Santo wants Gucci to give you the same addictive rush, a high on fashion that keeps you wanting more. Created with soft grain leather and silver-toned hardware, the B bag isn't just another accessory-this piece transitions from laid-back to polished to match your spirit. It will give you an effortlessly cool look with a relaxed silhouette that contours to your body and carrying style over time. It's the perfect size to carry what you need during the day and transforms into an accomplice at night. Gucci has done it ancora, re-envisioned a bag that's as versatile as it is badass.
Interview with Darren Gerrish
Words by Alice Almeida
Darren Gerrish looks perfectly embedded in the Parisian scene as he sits with his beret on and camera around his torso in a café by the Canal Saint Martin.
“I’ve always wanted to move to Paris,” he says.
Darren has been coming to Paris since he was 10 years old, first with his family on holidays and later several times yearly for fashion week. It is obvious by the light in his eyes and the smile on his face that he is in love with the city. Darren is a fashion photographer who loves photography and talks about it emotionally. He works for Vogue UK and photographs fashion shows and events in Paris, London, and NYC. Photography, he says, is not his profession, it’s who he is and how he defines himself.
Darren has devoted his life to capturing moments with a camera so that the public can catch glimpses of moments they’re not able to be present in. I had prepared questions in a little notebook I had in my bag, but as soon as Darren started speaking I realized I wouldn’t need them. Darren speaks with passion in his eyes not only about photography but also about life in general. It is obvious to anyone listening to him talk that he is in love with the experiences he has lived. “Kindness and trustworthiness” are two of the best qualities anyone can have to make it in the industry, he says. In the end, people want to work with someone who makes them feel comfortable and allows them to have a good time. People remember others for their kindness and for how they made them feel. That’s how Darren managed to distinguish himself. He did not work for the paycheck or clock out when the session ended. He went the extra mile. He stayed long after his hours were done because he truly wanted to be where he was; he genuinely enjoys fashion events and photographing people, and more importantly, he is grateful for everything he has been able to experience.
If you want to make it in the fashion industry you have to embody it. Fashion is not just a job. It is also a way of living: long hours and strict schedules when fashion season comes. Even though it seems normal to those on the inside, the fashion industry creates conflicts with those on the outside, even loved ones. Darren has missed many weddings, anniversaries, and funerals that coincided with jobs. It is a matter of choosing what’s most important to you. As I sit in my chair, I start to get anxious as Darren tells me about the time he almost missed his sister’s wedding because the date was originally set during fashion week.
“My sister calls me up and says ‘Darren I´m getting married’ and obviously I get really happy for her and promise to take all the pictures,” Gerrish says. “However my face goes blank and the line goes quiet once she tells me the date and I realize it’s during fashion week. ‘You can’t be bloody serious Darren, it's my wedding’ she said before hanging up.” Luckily, the venue was also available for the following weekend, and it all ended well.
Darren has photographed multiple A-listers in his career. However, he is still one of the funniest and kindest people I have met in the industry. There is not one bit of arrogance or attitude. The biggest advice he gave me was to be kind to people—but also to go for it and not be afraid to hear “no.” He stressed the importance of integrity and trustworthiness. Some photographs are not worth sharing with the public if it is going to damage someone’s reputation. It is important to have integrity as a photographer, as in the end we are all human.
MINIMALIST GLAMOUR REIGNS SUPREME: SAINT LAURENT’S PARIS FASHION WEEK SHOW
Published on Exhibit A
Words by Alice Almeida
Saint Laurent is known for its sharp tailoring and bold accents. Its fashion shows reign Paris Fashion Week. How did it get to the top? Yves Saint Laurent changed women's fashion and challenged societal norms through innovative designs. Saint Laurent wanted to empower women from the start of his career. He achieved this through “Le Smoking”, a tuxedo jacket for women that challenged gender norms thus becoming a symbol of female empowerment. Today's creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, follows Saint Laurent's steps by pushing boundaries in contemporary fashion.
The goal was to empower the female clients of the brand, with leather belts and fine ties. Think masculine boardroom with a female twist, but the rigidity of the sharp shoulder made you want to take whoever wore these seriously. The leather belts and subtle floral patterns brought texture to the collection and gave it more life. This idea goes back to the brand's timeless ethos of empowering women through clothing. The accessories such as glasses, necklaces, and accentuated bracelets gave a bold touch to the collection, enhancing its features and meaning. It brought the sophistication of the collection. The brocade fabrics, the jewel-toned colors, the long bell sleeves and skirts, and the color combos remind one of 80s YSL, a homage to that era.
For the second half of the show, Vaccarello transitioned from menswear looks to womenswear introducing translucent blouses, lace, and skirts. Vaccarello made the perfect combination of a collection that represents empowerment and strengths. A contrast between double-breasted suits and sheer skirts. The representation that a woman can feel powerful in both ways.
For the venue, Saint Laurent chose Rue de Bellechasse and transformed the headquarters into an oval-shaped runway. The Parisian air, cold and rainy, brought to life the collection's deep-colored palettes and textured ensembles. The guests sat surrounding the runway, deep blue on the floor ready for the models to shine through. The ambiance made the collection more mysterious. The music, instrumental in the background, created the perfect atmosphere for the guests to focus on the collection. The collection responds to the growing popularity of minimalism, Vaccarello stated, "I wanted to do almost nothing," reflecting a deliberate move towards minimalism. The color scheme also focused primarily on beige, black, and other neutral tones.